When the sun shines in Hilo, it's one of the most
beautiful tropical cities in the Pacific. Being here is an entirely
different kind of island experience: Hawaii's largest metropolis after
Honolulu is a quaint, misty, flower-filled city of Victorian houses
overlooking a half-moon bay, with a restored historic downtown and a
clear view of Mauna Loa's often snowcapped peak. Hilo catches everyone's
eye until it rains -- it rains a lot in Hilo -- and when it rains, it
pours.Hilo is one of America's wettest towns,
with 128 inches of rain annually. It's ideal for growing ferns, orchids,
and anthuriums, but not for catching a few rays. But there's lots to see
and do in Hilo, so grab your umbrella. The rain is warm (the temperature
seldom dips below 70°F/21°C), and there's usually a rainbow afterward.
Hilo's oversize airport and hotels are remnants of a
dream: The city wanted to be Hawaii's major port of entry. That didn't
happen, but the facilities here are excellent. Hilo is also Hawaii's
best bargain for budget travelers. It has plenty of hotel rooms -- most
of the year, that is. Hilo's magic moment comes in spring, the week
after Easter, when hula halau (schools) arrive for the annual
Merrie Monarch Festival hula competition. This is a full-on Hawaiian
spectacle and a wonderful cultural event.
Hilo is also the gateway to Hawaii Volcanoes National
Park; it's just an hour's drive away up-slope.
